DST63504 [Introduction of Pattern Drafting and Garment Making] - Week 12

 

Hi, Jelly here. This week, I went to Masjid India district to buy more supplies, specifically the buttons and threads that I thought I might need. Our lecturer mentioned a place in Chinatown for us to buy buttons or other types of accessories, but I wasn't quite sure how to look for the place as I can't find it on the google maps. I did found cute buttons though, I just hope that its huge enough, or nice enough for a go ahead to use it. It was my first time in the district as well, so it was quite a fun trip. Plus, I was not alone so I didn't get lost :3

(It was cute they had the signs on the road)

 

I began to work on the shirt the next day after. I already cut the pattern at home so I just had to cut the fabric in school. It looked promising, but I was starting to worry if it were to be tight on the model or not. I know, its soon to tell, and I did test it out on calico, but I'm still uncertain about it a little bit. Though, mostly excited.

(A piece cut for the shirt)

 

After that, I started to sew the pieces together, as it was divided into four part for both front and back. I made a little mistake on the front piece though, one of pieces was for the same side, by which they should've faced the opposite area. I immediately cut a new one by flipping the pattern and cut a new one. It was a waste of fabric but I thought I could use the same pattern for both. Clearly the translation in my brain went wrong.

(Redoing one piece of the shirt because of mistake)

(Trying to attach the front pieces and back pieces together)

 

After sewing the pieces together, I started to make the flaps for the shirt. As our theme was shirt, I tried to make sure that mine is a shirt. I noticed that there were no pockets so I improvised by putting them on the flaps. By design, we won't be able to see it up front but I thought it was a great idea. So I put it onto the pattern for the front flaps. For this, I cut 4 pieces for each front (with pocket) and back flaps. Would've been better if I consulted it with our lecturer first, but they all seem so busy with a lot of students as well, so I didn't really want to disturb them unless I really have to.

(Front Flaps)

(Back Flaps)

 

As the flaps were settled (I just needed to wait for a sewing machine as my bobbin was being used and the rest was gone somehow TT), I tried to be more productive by making the pattern for the sleeve. I tried looking for them in Pinterest for days now, since 2 weeks ago actually, but I haven't found that I thought would suit my design well. Since it was quite desperate, I asked Ms Melina about it, and she told me to give height by around 3 cm on the shoulder part of the sleeves. So I did. The closest thing I found on Pinterest that would give me the wow factor on the sleeve area was the Filipino sleeve. It looked so elegant, but it wasn't wide or puffy enough. So I did add height, but I also applied the drafting of a puff sleeve on them as well.

(Attempt to make sleeve pattern. It looked so big for only an upper arm area)

 

With the draft ready, I cut it on a practice cloth (in this case, calico) to test out the pattern. I showed it to our lecturer, and he gave an insight to make it bigger, as it was quite small. I, too, agree with that, because it really didn't show any wow factor that I'm trying to achieve.

 

I tried to get everything early, so I made the collar pattern and the waistband, since I have been stalling it for a while because I haven't figured out the skirt draping yet.

(Waistband pattern)

It feels like I'm doing a lot at once but with little progress. My mind was so cluttered, still is though. After that I put it aside though. Instead, I tried to put together the pieces of the shirt I have so far on a mannequin. It looked snatched, just the way I want it, but I am starting to get worry again that it would be too tight. Nevertheless, our lecturer saw it and he asked me if I was planning to put lace since there were ruffles on the design. I didn't actually plan to, as it was not on the design, but I'm not afraid to experiment with it, well as long as I'm still near the comfort zone I guess. So I agreed to it, mostly peer pressure and that I can't say no, but it's not a bad idea. I just didn't have any vision with it yet since I didn't think that I would be doing lace for this project. He also asked if I wanted to just use lace for the sleeve draping. I just said yes XD.

 

Next morning, I went to buy lace so that I would be able to show it to our lecturer whether it's acceptable or not. I went to Masjid India district again, alone this time, to hunt for lace (as it was already late for me to buy it from Shoppee TT). I went to Gio's first because I keep on hearing and seeing the place. I asked the clerk where they display their lace and she showed me where. It was a massive place. Not very much to my liking though. The laces were a lot, most of them are of floral pattern and very shimmery. I was trying to look for french lace or the likes, though, since during the era of Renaissance, they mostly use Damask pattern and symbolization of status on their embroidery. But I couldn't find them. These were the laces I quite liked from Gio's (though I don't think they represent Renaissance well).

(Very flowery and full)

(Much simpler look than the one above but it doesn't feel Renaissance to me too when I look at it)

So as a confused person in the middle of a new zone, I asked my teacher places where I could buy laces. He mentioned Bunga Reben, Gulatis, and another place that I couldn't pinpoint where. So I walked down the street before finding Gulatis near Gio's, actually. They had a variety of laces, though I am pretty sure I should be looking for white. I told it to the clerk and he showed me where I can look for the laces. There were a lot more laces than Gio's, but I know what to look for so it was quite an easy lot to pick from.

 

The laces were very pretty, but then again, they're all floral (as in like too floral for it to look Renaissance). I found a pretty decent one though so I sent it to our lecturer. I explained to him that I think the lace would look nice since it kinda has a damask pattern on it (looks like a vase flower, though). He said it looks okay and asked if I like it. Honestly, I do like it, just needed a confirmation that it was indeed quite pretty. I bought the lace and stopped by Bunga Reben to buy the small lace (referencing the french lace and found it) then went to the mall first to eat lunch and went back.

(The lace I bought, I adore it :3)

(The smaller lace I bought for decoration)

 

I was planning to go to the studio to show the laces I bought. I fell asleep though, because of lunch and exhaustion (yeah, I haven't been outside for so long it tires me a lot). So, I decided to show it next week instead. Before that though, I tried to fix the sleeves a bit by subtracting the sleeve length because it was ridiculously too long (ugh, the misfortune of not preparing and confirming the master pattern TT). I don't know how it looked now but I did try on my sister's arm. I think the length is okay now but I'm still afraid to cut it onto the fabric, so I decided wait on it for next week when I can ask Ms Melina about it.

 

On Sunday, I went to the studio though, after a lot of preparation. I know that the studio would be closed at 5 PM so I prepared what I needed to sew. I decided that I would focus on sewing the flaps, waistband, and collar. I cut the fabrics needed (and interfacing) then head out to the studio.

(Collar pattern and cut)

(Flaps to sew)

 

There were a lot of people today at campus. Most of them were wearing graduation robes so it must be graduation day. Walking through the path towards the studio, though, I noticed a very peculiar spot and it looked so fun and adorable. I mean, just look at this sight:

As I entered the studio, there were maybe only around 3 to 4 people, so it was quiet which I like very much. I focused on doing the waistband first since I've done it before. I ironed the interfacing onto the waistband before attaching the piece onto the top area of the skirt. I pinned it down and tried to sew it alongside its allowance. It was quite hard to do as I wasn't very neat with it (probably have to cut it more properly and carefully next time). Then I sewed 1 cm from both edges before flipping it inside out. After that, I just have to fold it in and pin it near the allowance of the waist area of skirt before sewing it. After sewing it, when I took a look at it, it was a bit wrinkly and the sewing isn't really neat. But since there were no time to fix it, I just immediately resumed on sewing the flaps and collar.

(Sewing the waistband after attaching it using pins)

 

When sewing the flaps, I just make sure not to sew the pocket area and then I just ironed the flaps to flatten it after turning it inside out. For the collar, I ironed the interfacing first, and sewed around the edges and top (leaving the bottom open). Then I flipped it inside out. When I tried to pin it onto the shirt, though, it looked too long so I knew that I had to redo it. I'm pushing it to next week (tomorrow) though, since I no longer had time to.

(Sewing one of the front flaps)